twoifoverland spence hot springs

Snapshot: Santa Fe & Albuquerque

Though we’ve driven through Albuquerque on a trek from Florida to California, we can’t say that we’ve ever made it a destination. That all changed when we took one of our Goal Zero gigs in Albuquerque, making north central New Mexico home for the last few weeks.

Jemez Springs

New Mexico is one of those places where you think you know what you’re in for, but you couldn’t be more wrong. We were taken aback by the surprisingly varied landscapes and climates of the high desert. Diversely hosting six of the world’s seven life zones, New Mexico is as much vast, sprawling desert as it is evergreen forest, decadent hot springs, and, come winter, snow-capped mountains.

Santa Fe National Forest
Santa Fe National Forest

Though our time here was mostly work, we did get a chance to explore for a few days and, if you’re in the area, here’s a quick snapshot.

Santa Fe

img_4660Overview: Artsy, historic town clinging to its origin story and more touristy than we were expecting. While it boasts an impressive food scene, most places appear pretty average, as is the case with most cities driven by tourism. A walking tour of the various styles of historical architecture downtown is definitely worth doing, as are some of the museums (Santa Fe is home to the Georgia O’Keefe museum and dozens of others). But the shops are mostly geared toward tourists; insanely expensive and not a lot of variety. If you’re into yoga and art, this is your place and there are loads of opportunities for getting into nature in close proximity, including lots of trails in the Sangre de Cristo mountains, Santa Fe National Forest, and more.

Must Do: The Railyard Farmers Market – Wednesday nights from 4-8pm where you’ll find some of the most unique farm-fresh produce and goods. A few of our favorites were MiYoung’s Farm Kim Chi (arguably the best kim chi we’ve ever had). Their schtick? This family-owned operation grows their own no-till vegetables organically and at their home farm to make their signature creation. At the market, they serve their kim chi inside beautiful sprouted, handmade mung bean wraps with local goat cheese for a perfect farmers market snack.

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The market is also home to chicken farmers who pass our quality & animal care test, as well as a vendor who produces freeze-dried, powdered garlic scapes. They are little bags of powdered gold, and we’ve been using it on everything!

Must Eat: Hands down, the best place we found in Santa Fe was the Tune Up Café. While other restaurants boast “authentic” New Mexican food, this place really hits the mark with their strong flavors, commitment to local ingredients, and seriously the BEST carrot cake ever. (Read our review on Trip Advisor).

Must Drink: Second Street Brewery. Park there and listen to the commuter rail roll by while you sip your brew. When you’re done, walk the whole Railyard area, including the Railyard area park, shops & galleries. Bonus, it’s right by the farmers market.

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Albuquerque

img_3925Overview: Few cities have squandered their potential as much as ABQ. With the Sandia Mountains as a nearby playground, gorgeous weather, 18mph speed limits for seemingly bicycle-friendly roads, dozens of networks of commuter bike paths, and breweries to boot, it would seem like Albuquerque would have it made as one of our top cities. While it does clearly try to compete with the likes of Boulder, Portland and Austin, what ABQ lacks is crime control and a culture of bicycle-friendliness. We lost count of the number of times officers stopped by the truck to warn us of the theft and vandalism problem rampant here. We were consistently warned of a major drug problem and human trafficking issue in major areas of town. The homeless and meth users had scattered their belongings and set up camp in the middle of every downtown street. Bethany was warned on more than one occasion not to walk on the sidewalk alone (and when she did anyway to get to a coffee shop to do some work, she was solicited three times to get in a truck). We tried to camp near the Sandias so we could trail run in the morning, but the guard at the parking area advised us against it because we would likely have graffiti all over our truck by morning. Not exactly a welcoming place.

That said, we did find some gems:

Must Eat: If you visit no other place in Albuquerque, go to The Grove. You don’t even have to eat there (although their menu does boast a lot of local, organic yumminess), just order a half-dozen of their super-soft, doughnut-like homemade English muffins. They’re doughy, delicious, and we promise you won’t regret the carbs. The secret is in their wild yeast which makes them beyond special.

Must Drink: Check out the beer selection at B2B Bistronomy. They make a killer cherry stout and a signature green chile ale if you’re into some local flavor. We biked around ABQ on a quest for all things “green chile” on Bethany’s birthday in August and this was a favorite. Also check out Marble Brewery, Tractor Brewing, and a decent little local Neapolitan pizza chain, Il Vicino with their own Canteen Brewhouse. Their crust is doughy and they turn out some creative, albeit not classical Neapolitan, favors, but the beer is among our favorite.

Best Gym: If you’re here for work and need a place to workout while you’re in town, we highly recommend the Wellbridge New Mexico Health & Wellness centers at Midtown and Riverpoint. They were very accommodating in giving us a custom short-term membership so we could work out and use their beautiful outdoor pool facilities (Bethany’s heart sang at the ability to swim outside every day).

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32 mile morning ride on the Bosque Trail along the Rio Grande with hot air balloons in the background.

Must Do: Go on a long bike ride along the Bosque Trail on the west side of town. We didn’t have enough time to explore some of the other trails (nor did we want to get our bikes on the area’s dirt trails too much; we unfortunately learned the hard way that goat heads, gnarly little thorns, are a major problem for cyclists here). But this paved 16 mile path (one way) is a great morning ride along the Rio Grande where you can watch the hot air balloons in the morning sun. It’s quite beautiful.

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After getting dozens of these little devil thorns in his tires and changing two flats, Martin learned the hard way that ‘goat heads’ are not something you want to mess with.

Side Trips

We had two off-days, during which we drove through the Santa Fe National Forest and parts of the Sangre de Cristo mountain range, exploring our truck’s off-road capability and in search of the area’s multitude of hot springs.

Jemez Springs

North of Albuquerque, Jemez is known for its plentiful hot springs. The area is mountainous, lush and evergreen from its unexpectedly ample water source: The Jemez River (a tributary of the Rio Grande). Since our time was limited, we selected a few short hike-in springs within the Santa Fe National Forest to visit:

  • Spence Hot Springs – This hike-in spring with a trailhead conveniently located right off of Hwy 4 was all about maximal reward with minimal effort. An easy ½ mile walk with a slight scramble at the end yielded two lukewarm pools (with the top one being warmest) adorning the mountain landscape. The top pool lightly cascaded over into the second lower, almost heart-shaped pool. Because of its accessibility, you’re probably going to have to share with others on this one. But it’s still worth a trip.

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  • San Antonio Hot Springs – Here’s where we got to break in the truck’s off-road legs a little bit. From the turn-off, it’s a rutted out, uphill five miles to gates of the trailhead. The 6×6 didn’t miss a beat, chugging along through every bump and crevice in the unmaintained road without hesitation – it was doing what it was meant to do! From the gate, it’s about a mile to the springs. You start along a forest service road that’s wide and flat. Cross the bridge and start the more wooded section of the hike. You’ll pass the creek on your right, and can feel warmth coming from it. Keep going until you find four cascading pools on your right. They’re hottest at the top, starting around 104ish and gradually decrease in temperature as you get to the lower pools. Pick one to call yours and take in the views. Again, because of its relative convenience, this is one you’ll probably have to share with other visitors, but you’ll still likely have at least a pool all to yourself.

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*A note about boondocking in the Santa Fe National Forest – There are a LOT of no overnight parking signs throughout this area even though it is national forest land. We recommend scoping out the MUVMs (multi use vehicle maps) before you visit so you know where you can snag a camp spot. We found a clearing off of Forest Service road 106 to camp for the night.

Camp in the Santa Fe National Forest off Forest Service Rd.

Tent Rocks

Another side trip we did was to the Kasha-Katuwe National Monument (also called Tent Rocks) in the Cochiti Pueblo between Albquerque and Santa Fe. Read all about that one here.

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Kasha-Katuwe National Monument

Now we’re taking the scenic route to the Pacific Northwest, stopping to link up with friends, mountain bike and take in whatever happens to catch us on the road; currently writing this after a day of riding Phil’s World near Cortez, Colorado.

11 comments

  1. Thanks Jason! GXV did it all from sourcing the m1083 to mating it and building the cabin. The chassis itself was modified to accommodate the cabin, belts, etc replaced and a little more sound dampening. Otherwise we left it as is. Will have a YouTube video soon that shows more detail of the cab/chassis. 🙂

  2. Sorry to have missed you in Albuquerque. I agree with the unfortunateness of our larceny and theft problem in town. My Jeep was broken into less than two weeks into moving here. But the opportunities of the city have grown on me and I echo my fellow New Mexicans that, like you have found, the area has many places to get out and be active. We love Tent Rocks and it is a constant visit for us with out of town friends to give them a feel for the desert SW hiking. About the rig, did you do a refurb on the M1083 and who did the mating of the GEV pod and the military truck?

  3. Thanks carol! We had it built for us in Missouri by a company called global expedition vehicles. Just passing through on our way to hike the Rogue River Trail and then head on to Tahoe later this week. I can see why the move would be appealing – this place is gorgeous!

  4. Just passed you on the Ocean Ridge road in Yachats, Oregon. Awesome rig!! I am also from Albuquerque, New Mexico. Come out here every fall but Cam seriously considering moving here due to the crime in Albbuquerque! Awesome rig!! Where did you have it put together?
    Carol from Albuquerque

  5. Holy cow! I’m glad the attempted car thief didn’t make it out of there with your truck! That’s exactly the kind of thing we were continually warned about in that area. Sure is disappointing because ABQ has some great things going for it. Hope they can clean it up. Thanks for looking is up!

  6. I really like your rig. My 3.5 year old and I spent a long time admiring it. Very interested to see your updates as you travel.

    My truck was parked 5 or 6 spaces from you at Costco on Eubank and someone tried to steal it. Presumably the alarm scared off the people before they got a chance to try to start it.

  7. We saw your truck/camper/incredible vehicle in mesa verde! Looked online and found your blog. Wonderful posts- enjoy your trip!

  8. Well done! You’re so right, there’s a ton more to do in this area and we barely scratched the surface. Thanks for the suggestions and insights! Definitely take the VANdal route when you can — you won’t regret it :).

  9. Nice overview. I’m an Albuquerquean, saw your truck in the lot at Costco and admired it from afar, which is how I got the website address. Crime is unfortunately a real problem. In fact, while I was admiring your 6×6 I was listening to a guy telling a Costco employee that his truck had just been stolen from the Costco lot. 🙁 But, as a long-time resident, I’ve never really felt unsafe in my area of town (east of Tramway) and wouldn’t think of living anywhere else. Yep, as a bicycle commuter you have to have a plan for thorns, I use Stan’s in my tubes, in addition to using tougher tires and liners. Surprised you didn’t ride the foothills trails east of Tramway, lots of nice views of the city but out in the wilderness above it! Especially green up there this year with more rain than we’ve had in a while. If you come back, make sure and check out the Tram to the crest, and do a hike up there. Usually 10 degrees or more cooler up there than down in the river valley. And in the winter (usually after Christmas) you can park at the base of the tram, take your skis up to the top, and ski all day before riding the tram back down. Lots of other great stuff to do in NM (White Sands, Carlsbad Caverns, Taos (including Taos Cow Ice Cream – Yumm!!), tons of camping and fishing, Mesa Verde and Bandelier monuments, and on and on. BTW, not sure I’ll ever get a 6×6, but I may try the homemade Vandal route after the kids granduate and we can travel. Cheers!

  10. Growing up I spent many a summer camping with my family and backpacking with dad in those mountains! Fond memories and the genesis of my love for the outdoors adventure. Thanks for the post.

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